by Helen Gordon
A place of great historical interest, Faro became wealthy under Roman occupation due to its fishing and extraction of salt from the local marshes. Originally known as Ossonoba, Faro also gained prominence as a vital Roman trading post. The city’s strategic location at the crossroads of trade routes facilitated its growth, becoming a hub for commerce and cultural exchange.
The remnants of Roman walls and mosaics scattered across Faro stand as silent witnesses to this bygone era. As the Roman Empire waned, Faro experienced successive waves of Moorish and Christian rule. The Moors, drawn to the city’s strategic position, fortified its defences and left an enduring imprint on Faro’s architecture. The fourth king of Portugal, Afonso III, conquered the city in 1249 and the Algarve was then integrated into the Portuguese kingdom.
A tuk-tuk tour in Faro offers a unique and charming way to explore the historic capital of the Algarve. Starting opposite Faro Marina, by the attractive gardens, our welcoming guide, Ernesto, with his in-depth knowledge of Faro’s history, introduces you to the city’s rich cultural heritage. Almost completely surrounded by walls, the oldest part of Faro is accessible only through its three medieval gates. Passing through the Arco da Vila, to the old town of Vila-Adentro, watch out for the storks nesting above as you’re transported back in time.
The tuk-tuk winds its way through the narrow alleys and cobbled streets of the Cidade Velha, the historic centre, where your first encounter is with the architectural treasure, Faro Cathedral.
Located in the vast Largo da Sé (cathedral square), surrounded by orange trees in bloom, its imposing facade and intricate details showcase centuries of craftsmanship. Built by command of King Afonso IV, the cathedral stands over the ruins of a mosque dating back to 1215 (built shortly after the Arabs conquered the city of Faro). Climb to the top of the Medieval Tower and enjoy breathtaking views over the walled city and Ria Formosa.
The tuk-tuk then takes you past an imposing statue of the King standing opposite the Faro Municipal Museum, housed in a splendid Renaissance 16th-century building, offering a glimpse into the region’s rich archaeological past.
Make a note to return and visit the must-see stunning ‘Mosaic of the Ocean’, dated around the third century AD and only unearthed in 1976.
Our next stop sits on the corner of Praça Dom Afonso III and is the aptly named Vila-Adentro restaurant. Grab a coffee and pastry and pop inside to see the beautifully tiled walls depicting local history and take a closer look at one of the underground tunnels, part of an extensive network under the old town, the real size of which is unknown. Whether they were used as a hiding place, irrigation or escape routes from possible attacks is not definitively known as there are no written records.
Facing this you will find Tertulia Algarvia, opened in 2013, which in addition to providing traditional meals and refreshments also provides cookery demonstrations, culinary and craft workshops and exhibitions. Check out their website if you feel like expanding your Portuguese culinary skills on one of your visits – www.tertulia-algarvia.pt
The historical old town has, however, three-quarters. The oldest, Vila-Adentro, as described above, surrounded by walls from the Moorish period; Mouraria, where the Moors settled outside the walls from 1269, now a busy shopping area; Bairro Ribeirinho, adjacent to the marina and the railway station, was originally the quarter of fishermen and mariners and today is the centre of Faro’s nightlife.
Departing the old town, we cruised through the Avenida da República, witnessing the blend of modern and traditional elements that now define Faro. Arriving at the Mercado Municipal, the central market, we immersed ourselves in local life. This bustling hub showcases the region’s fresh produce, seafood and handicrafts.
Engage with friendly vendors, sample traditional treats and embrace the lively atmosphere that defines daily life for the residents of Faro. The tuk-tuk tour, which concludes where it began at Faro Marina, encapsulates the essence of this charming city, offering a seamless blend of history and culture.
Often overlooked, a visit to Faro should definitely be on your agenda. Enjoy a refreshing drink as you overlook the pretty marina. Explore the old town on foot, or by tuk-tuk, then perhaps dine on freshly prepared cataplana at Restaurante Cidade Velha by the walls of the Cathedral. Finish with a cocktail at O Castelo, overlooking the beautiful Ria Formosa, as the Algarvean sunsets. What’s not to love?
Look-Al Tuk Tuk, ernesto@look-al.com
Tel: +351 919 290 010
Fairways members enjoy 10% discount on the tours and 20% on walking tours.
